Experiences and curiosities

A question before dinner: I thought of frogs’ legs as a French speciality. Exploring their history led me to Italian rice fields, Asian kitchens and questions about provenance. A journey to understand, with respect, what reaches our plates.

A history across borders

France is closely associated with frogs’ legs, but has no monopoly on them. Researcher André Neveu describes food traditions in Europe, Asia, Africa and the Americas. He places their arrival in prestigious European kitchens around the sixteenth century; that does not establish who first ate them. Frog consumption in China has ancient roots. ^{1, 2}

Vietnam and Singapore through frying and sauces

The Vietnamese word for frog is ếch. In Ho Chi Minh City, preparations include ếch chiên nước mắm: fried frog with fish sauce, garlic and a sweet element. Another is spicy braised frog served with rice porridge, a Singaporean speciality that has become popular in Vietnam. These represent different cuisines, rather than a single Asian recipe. ³

Italy and China through rice fields and tradition

In Lomellina, near Pavia, frog risotto tells the story of rice-field farming communities. The frogs themselves can also be used to make the stock. China has a history of frog protection too: in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, efforts were made to restrict catching because frogs ate crop pests. The same animals were both food and farmers’ allies. ^{2, 4}

How they reach the table

Supply chains include wild capture and farming, followed by processing and distribution, including international trade. A 2023 study of 40 farmers in Đồng Tháp, Vietnam, describes tarpaulin-lined tanks, net enclosures in ponds and commercial pellet feed. Many also produced their own young frogs. This is a local study, not a description of every Vietnamese farm. ^{5, 6}

Provenance matters as much as the recipe

Farmed does not automatically mean sustainable. The Vietnamese study identifies problems with water quality, stocking densities and wastewater; international trade research highlights traceability gaps and pressure on wild populations. Country of origin, species and production method are different pieces of information. Asking the restaurant whether frogs are farmed or wild-caught, and who supplies them, helps us understand the dish. ^{5, 6}

What about Switzerland?

There is no general ban on eating frogs’ legs. Native amphibians are protected, however, and catching them requires a cantonal permit. Frogs’ legs obtained without stunning are subject to a declaration requirement, including in restaurants, with a transition period until 1 July 2027. A disclosure rule is not a general sales ban. ^{7, 8}

For Le Tavole Vere del Mondo, curiosity begins with a good memory, a question and a wish to hear a dish’s story. This is a cultural feature, not a review of dinner at Huayuan.